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	<title>Comments for Dr. Laundry</title>
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	<description>Your Laundry 411</description>
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		<title>Comment on Bleach and Granite Countertops by Dr. Laundry</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2012/01/02/bleach-granite-countertops/#comment-3207</link>
		<dc:creator>Dr. Laundry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Jan 2012 21:35:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/?p=1384#comment-3207</guid>
		<description>This is a great question that is reallyy two questions in one:  how to solubilize oily residue on counters for easy removal, and is hot water suitable for a disinfecting bleach solution.  It’s important to note that when using Clorox Regular-Bleach to disinfect counters, they should be cleaned first before applying the bleach solution (which by the way is ¾ cup Clorox Regular-Bleach per gallon of water).  Water from the “cold” line should be used to mix bleach solutions.    Since water doesn’t solubilize oil but heat does help with this, using hot water to provide the heat to break up the oil is one approach, and you could do this prior to bleaching the counters.  However, if you want a one-step cleaning product for your kitchen counters, I recommend Clorox Clean-Up, a sodium hypochlorite based spray cleaner that in addition to bleach also has a surfactant to break up oily stains.  It comes in a spray bottle, is super convenient to use, and is very effective.  Hopefully this helps!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a great question that is reallyy two questions in one:  how to solubilize oily residue on counters for easy removal, and is hot water suitable for a disinfecting bleach solution.  It’s important to note that when using Clorox Regular-Bleach to disinfect counters, they should be cleaned first before applying the bleach solution (which by the way is ¾ cup Clorox Regular-Bleach per gallon of water).  Water from the “cold” line should be used to mix bleach solutions.    Since water doesn’t solubilize oil but heat does help with this, using hot water to provide the heat to break up the oil is one approach, and you could do this prior to bleaching the counters.  However, if you want a one-step cleaning product for your kitchen counters, I recommend Clorox Clean-Up, a sodium hypochlorite based spray cleaner that in addition to bleach also has a surfactant to break up oily stains.  It comes in a spray bottle, is super convenient to use, and is very effective.  Hopefully this helps!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Stained Work Pants and Jeans by Dr. Laundry</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2011/12/21/stained-work-pants-jeans/#comment-3206</link>
		<dc:creator>Dr. Laundry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Jan 2012 17:57:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/?p=1374#comment-3206</guid>
		<description>Great, I hope it helps!  And if you have any follow up questions please don&#039;t hesitate to ask.

- Dr. Laundry</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great, I hope it helps!  And if you have any follow up questions please don&#8217;t hesitate to ask.</p>
<p>- Dr. Laundry</p>
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		<title>Comment on Perspiration Stains by Dr. Laundry</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2011/08/26/perspiration-stains/#comment-3205</link>
		<dc:creator>Dr. Laundry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Jan 2012 17:55:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/?p=1252#comment-3205</guid>
		<description>Preventing the stains before they develop is definitely the most effective treatment!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Preventing the stains before they develop is definitely the most effective treatment!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Perspiration Stains by Amber Zbierski</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2011/08/26/perspiration-stains/#comment-3201</link>
		<dc:creator>Amber Zbierski</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Jan 2012 20:45:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/?p=1252#comment-3201</guid>
		<description>I was under the impression that sweat stains on white clothes are caused by a chemical reaction between fabric and sweat. In the past when I tried bleaching whites, sweat stains have come out darker than when I put them in the laundry. These days I use the option of avoiding the stain in the first place; it&#039;s much easier than fighting with the clothing later.  I use Garment Guard, a cotton shield that sticks to the shirt and prevents sweat from touching the clothing. I know bleach can do almost anything, but this is one stain that you can prevent before it happens because you know about it beforehand!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was under the impression that sweat stains on white clothes are caused by a chemical reaction between fabric and sweat. In the past when I tried bleaching whites, sweat stains have come out darker than when I put them in the laundry. These days I use the option of avoiding the stain in the first place; it&#8217;s much easier than fighting with the clothing later.  I use Garment Guard, a cotton shield that sticks to the shirt and prevents sweat from touching the clothing. I know bleach can do almost anything, but this is one stain that you can prevent before it happens because you know about it beforehand!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Leaving Bleach in a Measuring Cup by Cody Sullivan</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2012/01/11/leaving-bleach-measuring-cup/#comment-3197</link>
		<dc:creator>Cody Sullivan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 23:08:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/?p=1394#comment-3197</guid>
		<description>I had that very same thing happen. I did not rinse mu measuring cup out though. I just poored more bleach in and used it in my laundry. I guess i didnt tjink much of it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I had that very same thing happen. I did not rinse mu measuring cup out though. I just poored more bleach in and used it in my laundry. I guess i didnt tjink much of it.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Stained Work Pants and Jeans by tammy sharratt</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2011/12/21/stained-work-pants-jeans/#comment-3196</link>
		<dc:creator>tammy sharratt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 05:43:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/?p=1374#comment-3196</guid>
		<description>O yes!  My husband is a garbage man that has to wear the High Visibility Bright Tellow shirts and they are always so dingey and stained.  I will try the above ideas and hope they help.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>O yes!  My husband is a garbage man that has to wear the High Visibility Bright Tellow shirts and they are always so dingey and stained.  I will try the above ideas and hope they help.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Bleach and Granite Countertops by Larry Lopez</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2012/01/02/bleach-granite-countertops/#comment-3185</link>
		<dc:creator>Larry Lopez</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Jan 2012 06:44:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/?p=1384#comment-3185</guid>
		<description>Should I use a hot or cold water to mix bleach properly into the water? I think if the counter top is oily then we need to use a hot water with bleach to dissolve it properly. If we use a cold water then the oily part will not clean.&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thertastore.com/Kitchen_Cabinets_s/857.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Laundry Room Cabinets&lt;/a&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Should I use a hot or cold water to mix bleach properly into the water? I think if the counter top is oily then we need to use a hot water with bleach to dissolve it properly. If we use a cold water then the oily part will not clean.<a href="http://www.thertastore.com/Kitchen_Cabinets_s/857.htm">Laundry Room Cabinets</a></p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Shelf Life by Dr. Laundry</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2010/10/26/shelf-life/#comment-3180</link>
		<dc:creator>Dr. Laundry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Dec 2011 22:09:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.drlaundryblog.com/?p=487#comment-3180</guid>
		<description>Hi Larry,

No—you don’t have to factor in any additional time for transportation to the store from the production facility, or how long a product might sit on a store shelf because we already have!  The “5 months past the purchase date” general guideline assumes that a bottle of Clorox® Regular-Bleach could have taken up to a month from the day it was produced until it was eventually purchased at a local store and brought home by a consumer.  This is a pretty conservative allowance—our distribution channels are very efficient and usually bleach doesn’t sit on store shelves that long.

Hope that helped!

Dr. Laundry</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Larry,</p>
<p>No—you don’t have to factor in any additional time for transportation to the store from the production facility, or how long a product might sit on a store shelf because we already have!  The “5 months past the purchase date” general guideline assumes that a bottle of Clorox® Regular-Bleach could have taken up to a month from the day it was produced until it was eventually purchased at a local store and brought home by a consumer.  This is a pretty conservative allowance—our distribution channels are very efficient and usually bleach doesn’t sit on store shelves that long.</p>
<p>Hope that helped!</p>
<p>Dr. Laundry</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Shelf Life by Larry Disbro</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2010/10/26/shelf-life/#comment-3170</link>
		<dc:creator>Larry Disbro</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Dec 2011 11:24:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.drlaundryblog.com/?p=487#comment-3170</guid>
		<description>I have a question on shelf life time for EPA registered disinfectant.

If label strength usually is good up to 5 months past purchase date is there also a factor to be considered for time the product has sat on a store shelf on in a distribution center?

Regards,

Larry</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a question on shelf life time for EPA registered disinfectant.</p>
<p>If label strength usually is good up to 5 months past purchase date is there also a factor to be considered for time the product has sat on a store shelf on in a distribution center?</p>
<p>Regards,</p>
<p>Larry</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Grease Stain After Washing by Dr. Laundry</title>
		<link>http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/2011/11/09/grease-stain-washing/#comment-3163</link>
		<dc:creator>Dr. Laundry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2011 01:15:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clorox.com/blogs/dr-laundry/?p=1336#comment-3163</guid>
		<description>Hi Melinda and Frank,

If the clothes washer is brand new, then there could be residual lubricants or other oils left over from the production of the washer that are transferring onto the clothes.  However, it should be consistent across all loads, that is, you should see it on both light and dark loads.  That the stains show up only on the dark loads looks like it is incomplete oily soil removal.  These stains are hidden on darker items that are still damp following washing, so you won’t necessarily notice them when transferring laundry from the washer to the dryer; they only become visible after the item has dried.  The source of the stains can be any number of things:  make-up, salad dressing, lotion, even spaghetti sauce if it’s made with a lot of oil, to name a few.  Pre-treating stains, especially on items being washed in high efficiency washers, is critical for getting good results.  Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster can be used to pre-treat these stains:  apply a little liquid directly to the stain and rub in, wait 3-5 minutes and then wash the item in the hottest water recommended on the garment care label using detergent and more Clorox2®.  For more heavy oily stains, you may need to pre-treat with a small amount of liquid dishwashing detergent before washing with Clorox2®.  Finally, air drying is important so you can evaluate items for incomplete stain removal before they are exposed to dryer heat, which can permanently set stains.
 
What you describe reflects the need for consumers using low-volume high efficiency washers to adapt their laundry habits.  I have an HE washer and overall I love it, but the mechanical energy and thermal energy components of cleaning are definitely different versus a deep-fill traditional washer, and I rely more heavily on pre-treating and pre-soaking to continue getting good results.  It’s worth it for the energy and water savings, though!

Hope that helps!

- Dr. Laundry</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Melinda and Frank,</p>
<p>If the clothes washer is brand new, then there could be residual lubricants or other oils left over from the production of the washer that are transferring onto the clothes.  However, it should be consistent across all loads, that is, you should see it on both light and dark loads.  That the stains show up only on the dark loads looks like it is incomplete oily soil removal.  These stains are hidden on darker items that are still damp following washing, so you won’t necessarily notice them when transferring laundry from the washer to the dryer; they only become visible after the item has dried.  The source of the stains can be any number of things:  make-up, salad dressing, lotion, even spaghetti sauce if it’s made with a lot of oil, to name a few.  Pre-treating stains, especially on items being washed in high efficiency washers, is critical for getting good results.  Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster can be used to pre-treat these stains:  apply a little liquid directly to the stain and rub in, wait 3-5 minutes and then wash the item in the hottest water recommended on the garment care label using detergent and more Clorox2®.  For more heavy oily stains, you may need to pre-treat with a small amount of liquid dishwashing detergent before washing with Clorox2®.  Finally, air drying is important so you can evaluate items for incomplete stain removal before they are exposed to dryer heat, which can permanently set stains.</p>
<p>What you describe reflects the need for consumers using low-volume high efficiency washers to adapt their laundry habits.  I have an HE washer and overall I love it, but the mechanical energy and thermal energy components of cleaning are definitely different versus a deep-fill traditional washer, and I rely more heavily on pre-treating and pre-soaking to continue getting good results.  It’s worth it for the energy and water savings, though!</p>
<p>Hope that helps!</p>
<p>- Dr. Laundry</p>
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